Decks
Decks
Whether you’re looking to add a brand new deck to your home, replace your tired and worn out deck, or refinish and add onto an existing deck, DP Decks is here to help you extend your outdoor living space and get back to enjoying your yard with family and friends for years to come.
Click Here to head straight down to our deck gallery!
The Process
The Beginning/Site Prep
After contacting DP Decks and setting up a consultation time, we will go through the estimate, design, and contract process. When that is complete, we're ready to start the project! We need to make sure that all permits/engineering are obtained if needed, utilities have been marked, and neighbours have been notified of extra vehicle traffic and noise disruptions. We will tape off any doorways and mark any other hazards that will be exposed once the existing deck is removed.
Demolition
Time to start demolition, a construction debris bin or dump trailer will be on site for debris to be hauled away immediately. Sometimes the existing deck frame and or footings can be left to use for the new project but it is not recommended. Some framing may look solid but can decay from the inside-out. Old framing may have shifted slightly, joist height could fluctuate, older framing is most likely 16"+ on center, and building codes change throughout the years. Any of these items can cause issues with new deck boards such as composite and pvc decking materials that contour to every different joist height. Of course every job is different, and we have laid new boards on older framing once a thorough investigation was completed, some modifications were done, and confirmed the existing deck frame met current building code. Any changes or replacements of existing structure with decks 24" above grade do require a permit.
Footings/Foundation
Once new footing locations are marked, the holes are now dug and the forms are built according to the building plan. Even on a deck project below 24" in height without the need for a building plan or permit, the footings will be dug and formed below frost line at a minimum depth of 30". The footings need to be constructed on undisturbed soil though, which means that the footing depths can drastically differ between projects or even between footings on the same project. If the footings are right next to your house foundation, undisturbed soil will most likely be below your house foundation footings. If building above a retaining wall, the undisturbed soil could be below the depth of the wall. We have had projects where the depth of the footing was deeper than 6! Depending on location, undisturbed depth, and soil conditions it may make sense to use engineered metal helical piles instead of concrete for safety, cost, and ease of use. Helical piles are screwed into the earth with a big machine until the pile reaches a certain soil bearing capacity, we did have one project where that depth was over 14'! If using concrete for your foundation, it will be poured and left to cure before being built on.
Framing
Ready for framing! Footing forms will be stripped and backfilled. For lower than head height decks, landscape fabric will be rolled out and pinned for a weed-free area below the deck. Unless you are having us install a vinyl membrane deck which uses non treated framing, all other decks we build will use brown pressure treated lumber. The size of this lumber will differ between projects but most common with be 2"x8" or 2"x10" joists, 4.5" - 6" thick beams, 6"x6" posts, and stairs framed from 2"x12" boards. If using composite or PVC deck boards, all joists will be 12" on center. The deck will be properly attached to the new footings, as well as properly attached and waterproofed against your house with house-wrap, membranes, and metal flashing. All proper building techniques, fasteners, and hardware used throughout for the strongest and safest deck that will last many years. All our joists will be checked for high spots and fixed before decking starts. All end cuts of treated wood are re-preserved. We also offer and recommend the use of joist tape on the top of all joists and beams to maximize the framing life span.
Decking
On to the best part of the job, the big wow factor! Once the framing is finished, flat, and all preserving or taping is complete, we measure and lay out our first board parallel with the house and square. We start at the outside of the deck so if there are any "ripped" boards, they are next to the house under the flashing. We try and use hidden fasteners wherever possible, whether they are between the boards or face screwed with matching plugs. Even with wood boards we like to use tools to minimize the look of traditional screwed in boards. If hidden fasteners cannot be used, colour matching face screws will be used for borders or hard to reach areas. Picture frame borders will be cut and installed on the deck to hide all exposed ends and give a great finished look. We also like to use "Spline" borders that break up the deck boards to eliminate the need to butt the boards together throughout the deck space. This would match how your flooring inside your home would look, but much harder to keep the boards tight and flush for the life of the deck. Matching fascia and stair treads/risers also installed to cover all treated framing. We also use colour matching exterior enamel paint to cover any composite/pvc cut ends even when picture frame borders are installed.
Railings
Decks above 24" in height from the ground require railings that are 36" minimum in height, decks 60" in height require a 42" high railing. Also any deck stairs consisting of three steps or more require a handrail. You can use aluminum railing, wood, cable, or many combinations of materials to create a strong and safe railings that also look beautiful. Fascia mounted or top mounted options are available. You can incorporate higher privacy screen sections as well.
Vinyl Decking
If choose a vinyl membrane deck instead of a composite or a wood surfaced deck, the installation is different. The foundation, house attachment, and fastening techniques remain the same, but the framing is regular non treated lumber, and 5/8" tongue and groove plywood is glued and screwed to the top of the framing. Once this is done, vinyl flashing is installed around the outside perimeter flush with the plywood, and all seams or deficiencies on the plywood surface are filled and sanded smooth. This gives a nice flat and smooth surface for the vinyl to be glued to, as any bumps or dips are very noticeable when the vinyl is installed. We use a 60mil vinyl product that is glued and rolled to the plywood. All seams and points where the vinyl meets the flashing will be heat welded together. Railings are recommended to be fascia mounted, but any protrusions of posts, drains, conduits, or areas that cannot be flashed are finished with a premium exterior sealant.
Finishing Your Project
You're project is all finished! After completing the final decking and railing steps, staining any wood elements, we pressure wash all of our decks and scrub if needed. All our work debris will be hauled away, grass and landscape areas raked to pickup sawdust and shavings, and rolling magnets used to pickup any leftover nails or screws hiding in your yard. After your expectations are met and contract scope is fulfilled, pictures are taken and the space is now yours to enjoy with family and friends! We always send over a care sheet with maintenance information, and always welcome any feedback on our services!
for Most Of Our Services
We stand behind our workmanship and give you peace of mind that your project was done correctly and will be safe and beautiful for many years to come.
Click Here to see our warranty information.